Pet Breeder Library

It is critical to keep the pups warm with supplemental heat at this point. Use a towel and heating pad on low and wrap the pup like a taco while doing the initial handling and drying. 

The umbilical cord can be clamped and tied with thread or dental floss, cut 3/4" from the abdominal wall, and treated with iodine to prevent infection. The placenta/umbilical cord can be left attached if the pups are being delivered quickly.

The pups should be allowed to nurse, between the delivery of other puppies, as this nursing will stimulate uterine contractions. Additionally, this close contact helps to strengthen the bond between the mother and her puppies.

Environmental temperatures should be checked with a thermometer. Puppies do not have the mechanism to maintain their own body temperature. The area should be 80 to 90 degrees the first week and drop 5 degrees a week until weaning. Specialized whelping nests are available commercially which provide a controlled and safe heat source. Light bulbs, heat lamps, hot water bottles, towel-wrapped heating pads, or incubators can be used with caution to keep the pups warm. Only half of the box should be warmed so as to allow the pups and mother to move to warmer or cooler areas to best suit their needs.

The first week of life is the time of greatest risk for the newborn. The pups should be kept warm, free from drafts, away from other dogs, and the neighbors and their children. Healthy well-nourished pups should be quiet, eat and sleep (with some jerking during REM) 90% of the time, gain weight daily after the first 2 days, and show increasing strength and body tone.

Stools should be formed, light brown with a yellow–seedy appearance. Urine color should be assessed on a cotton ball at least once daily to monitor for adequate nursing and dehydration. The urine should be pale yellow in color. If the urine is darker yellow in color, this signifies dehydration. If the pups fail to gain weight, are fussy or weak, the urine is dark, the stools are abnormal, or the pups do not have good body tone, contact your veterinarian.

Once (or more daily if the pups are not thriving), at the same time each day, the pups should be weighed and have a rectal temperature taken, recording it to monitor for adequate nursing and weight gain. At least once a day, you should really LOOK and LISTEN to your litter. Pick up the puppies, roll them over, feel how they hold their body, their body condition, their attitude and their general appearance. Each pup should gain 2 to 7 grams per day per kilogram of anticipated adult body weight. By day 10 to 12 of age, their birth weight should double. This is an average of 1 to 3 oz per day per puppy as neonates.

You should also examine your bitch daily. Assess her appetite, water consumption, urination, stools, temperature, and attitude. Look at the color, character, and volume of her vaginal discharge. Take note of any unusual odor. Feel each mammary gland for texture and temperature (they should feel soft to firm, never hard) and look at a few drops of milk from each nipple. Colostrum, the first milk, will be yellow and thick. After the first 2 days, the color and consistency should very closely resemble cow's milk. Thick milk of any color other than white should be noted. Report any abnormalities to your veterinarian. DO NOT START MEDICATIONS without consultation as some medications can harm the pups.

Tail docks and/or dewclaw removal, if standard for your breed, are done between 3 and 5 days by your veterinarian.

From day 3 to day 16, we recommend the Early Neurologic Stimulation program by Carmen Battaglia be instituted to help the pups grow up as tolerant well-adjusted adults.

By days 10 to 14, the pup's ears and eyes are usually opening. If bulging of the eyelids (Neonatal Ophthalmia) is noted prior to the eyes opening, you should seek veterinary care at once. At this time, the pups become more aware of their surroundings. By 3 weeks, the pups are becoming active.

Often, a runt pup is noted in the litter. It may help to direct the pup to nurse on one of the mammary glands between the back legs as these have the most milk. Nutritional supplementation may also be indicated. Frequently, this pup will catch up by weaning time, and often this pup has the most spunk.

Normal postpartum discharge is dark green for the first 1 to 2 days, then becomes bloody. There is usually a lot of discharge for the first 5 to 7 days. It should gradually decrease in volume and become thick and clear or gray by day 10. Abnormal, excessive, or foul smelling vaginal discharge may indicate an infection, and you should consult your veterinarian. Postpartum complications include uterine infections, retained fetuses, retained placentas, poor return of the uterus to normal, mastitis, eclampsia (low blood calcium), and fetal death.

It is recommended to have the bitch and puppies examined within 24 hours of delivery to assure there are no retained pups, that the mammary glands are normal, and to have the puppies examined for defects or illness. The first day or two after whelping, the bitch may be reluctant to eat and have diarrhea. Drinking adequate fluids must be encouraged to assure adequate milk production. The mother's diet should be a high quality puppy or performance food to assure adequate consumption of calcium, protein, and calories. She will eat 2 to 3 times the amount she ate prior to breeding. Adding salt to her food and increasing the water availability will help assure adequate milk production. Do not administer any medications at this time without your veterinarian's advice, as many drugs can pass through the milk and affect the puppies.

This is the time to remember to submit litter registration papers to the AKC or other registry organization in order to receive the individual puppy registration papers back in time for the puppy's adoption.

Unfortunately, not all puppies are lucky enough to be raised exclusively by their mothers. The first 24 to 48 hours are the most critical for the puppy to nurse. This is when the colostrum, the first milk, is produced. Colostrum contains high levels of antibodies critical to the pup's ability to resist infectious diseases (bacterial or viral). Without this, the pups will be more vulnerable to contagious diseases.

If the pup is unable to nurse from the mother, the second best option is to find another lactating bitch that will accept the pups. This surrogate mother can usually increase her milk supply within a few days to respond to the increased demand.

For the first 2 weeks of life, after feeding, the pups should be stimulated to urinate and defecate by rubbing the area between the back legs with warm water on a cotton ball or a soft wash cloth with warm water. This simulates the mother's clean-up efforts.

At three weeks, or if the pups are orphaned at this age, a gruel of high quality softened small breed puppy food can be made and the pups handled as if they were being weaned. Orphaned pups should be immunized at a younger age than other pups. Hand-raising pups is time consuming and an enormous amount of work but can be very rewarding when successful.

The most common concerns in newborn puppies are fading pups (failure to thrive), diarrhea, and constipation. First, assess the situation by evaluating the puppy's environment: are they too warm, too cold, dry, or clean? Check if the pups have a normal temperature (96-99 degrees), are gaining weight, have normal urine and stools, and are not dehydrated. Additionally, ensure the mother is healthy, as she cannot adequately care for the pups if she is sick, has infected mammary glands, a uterine infection, or is not eating well.

Fresh frozen plasma can be a vital resource for neonatal puppies, especially within the first 24 hours of their lives. Proper handling and administration are crucial to ensure its effectiveness, ensuring their best chance for a healthy start. Here are some tips:

1. Keep all plasma frozen until use.

2. To thaw, carefully warm the plasma to body temperature by placing the tube against your body.  Only warm the tubes needed for each administration and keep the remaining tubes in the freezer. Do NOT heat in warm water or microwave, as this will damage the proteins and render the plasma ineffective. Gently rock the tube during thawing; do not shake.

3. The dose is 5 cc per puppy 3 times over a 24 hour period. If this can be administered in the first 24 hours after birth, it can be given orally with a feeding tube. After the pups are 24 hours old, it must be given by SQ or IO injection to be effective.

4. Draw 5 cc of warmed plasma into a syringe. Use a feeding tube (if less than 24 hours old) or a 20 or 22 gauge needle (for pups over 24 hours old) to inject the plasma. For subcutaneous injection, pinch the skin to prevent leakage. For feeding tube administration, follow the specific instructions carefully.

5. Repeat 2 more times in the next 24 hours. Change to SQ injection if the pups have exceeded 24 hours of age before the doses are administered.

Understanding how to tube feed is essential for ensuring the health and survival of neonatal animals when natural feeding is not a possibility. The process requires specific supplies, products and careful attention to make sure that the animals are fed in a safe and effective manner.

Materials Required:

• Goat’s milk, pasteurized, or commercial milk replacer
• Feeding tube, silicon or red rubber feeding tube, 8 to 14 French
• Permanent marker
• Syringe of appropriate size with catheter tip (10 or 60 cc)
• Puppy scale, so you feed at a rate of 20 cc per 16 oz of body weight. Repeat every 3 to 6 hours, based on the pup's condition.

Steps

1. Establish a well-lit warm location where you can hold the pup comfortably and all materials are within reach. Be attentive and do not rush.

2. Take the puppy’s temperature rectally, and do NOT feed unless the rectal temperature is between 96 degrees F and 99 degrees F. If the puppy’s temperature is below 96 degrees F, warm the pup before feeding.

3. On a safe surface, hold the pup with the neck extended. Hold the tapered end of the feeding tube even with the last rib of the largest pup to be fed. Lay the tube along the side of the pup, mark the tube even with the tip of the pup’s nose.

4. Fill the syringe with the calculated amount of formula or milk (20 cc/16 oz body weight or approximately 1 cc per ounce) plus 2 cc of air. Warm the formula to body temperature in a warm water bath to avoid microwaving.

5. Attach the syringe to the feeding tube.

6. With the pup fully awake, warm (over 96 degrees F rectal temp) lying horizontally on the chest, gently pass the tube over the center of the pup's tongue, applying gentle pressure to slide the tube up to the mark. If resistance is met, remove the tube and start over.

7. With your left hand if you are right-handed, cup your left hand around the back of the pup's head and hold the tube between your index and middle finger to prevent it from moving out of the correct position while feeding.

8. BEFORE FEEDING, firmly pinch the pup on the foot or tail. If the pup vocalizes, the tube placement is correct and you can proceed with feeding. If the tube is mistakenly in the trachea, the pup will struggle but will not be able to make any sound. STOP IMMEDIATELY, REMOVE THE TUBE AND START THE PROCESS OVER.

9. With your right hand, depress the plunger on the syringe, not too quickly, delivering the calculated amount, stopping sooner should milk reflux out of the pup’s mouth or nose.

10. Flex the tube on itself to prevent milk from being aspirated into the pup’s airway. Repeat for each pup.

11. Wash the syringe and tube with hot soapy water and allow it to air dry until the next feeding.

12. Stimulate the external anal and urinary orifices to effect defecation and urination with a warm moistened cotton ball or washcloth.

Long-Term Effects of Early Stress

Sexual maturity was attained sooner in the littermates given early stress exercises. When tested for differences in health and disease, the stressed animals were found to be more resistant to certain forms of cancer and infectious diseases and could withstand terminal starvation and exposure to cold for longer periods than their non-stressed littermates. 

Other studies involving early stimulation exercises have been successfully performed on both cats and dogs. In these studies, the Electrical Encephalogram (EEG) was found to be ideal for measuring the electrical activity in the brain because of its extreme sensitivity to changes in excitement, emotional stress, muscle tension, changes in oxygen and breathing. EEG measures show that pups and kittens when given early stimulation exercises mature at faster rates and perform better in certain problem solving tests than non-stimulated mates. 

The results show that early stimulation exercises can have positive results but must be used with caution. In other words, too much stress can cause pathological adversities rather than physical or psychological superiority.

Methods of Stimulation

The U.S. Military in their canine program developed a method that still serves as a guide to what works. In an effort to improve the performance of dogs used for military purposes, a program called "Bio Sensor" was developed. Later, it became known to the public as the "Super Dog" Program. Based on years of research, the military learned that early neurological stimulation exercises could have important and lasting effects. Their studies confirmed that there are specific time periods early in life when neurological stimulation has optimum results. The first period involves a window of time that begins at the third day of life and lasts until the sixteenth day. It is believed that because this interval of time is a period of rapid neurological growth and development, and therefore is of great importance to the individual.

The "Bio Sensor" program was also concerned with early neurological stimulation in order to give the dog a superior advantage. Its development utilized six exercises which were designed to stimulate the neurological system. Each workout involved handling puppies once each day. The workouts required handling them one at a time while performing a series of five exercises. Listed in order of preference the handler starts with one pup and stimulates it using each of the five exercises. The handler completes the series from beginning to end before starting with the next pup.

Neurological Stimulation Program Details

The five exercises are as follows. The duration of each of the five exercises is 3-5 seconds.

1. Tactical stimulation (between toes) 

Holding the pup in one hand, the handler gently stimulates (tickles) the pup between the toes on any one foot using a Q-tip. It is not necessary to see that the pup is feeling the tickle.

2. Head held erect

Using both hands, the pup is held perpendicular to the ground, (straight up), so that its head is directly above its tail. This is in an upwards position.

3. Head pointed down

Holding the pup firmly with both hands the head is reversed and is pointed downward, towards the ground.

4. Supine position

Hold the pup so that its back is resting in the palm of both hands with its muzzle facing the ceiling. The pup while on its back is allowed to sleep and struggle.

5. Thermal stimulation 

Use a damp towel that has been cooled in a refrigerator for at least five minutes. Place the pup on the towel, feet down. Do not restrain it from moving.

These five exercises will produce neurological stimulations, none of which naturally occur during this early period of life. Experience shows that sometimes pups will resist these exercises, others will appear unconcerned. In either case, a caution is offered to those who plan to use them. Do not repeat them more than once per day and do not extend the time beyond that recommended for each exercise. Overstimulation of the neurological system can have adverse and detrimental results. These exercises impact the neurological system by kicking it into action earlier than would be normally expected. The result being an increased capacity that later will help to make the difference in its performance. Those who play with their pups and routinely handle them should continue because the neurological exercises are not substitutions for routine handling, play socialization or bonding.

Benefits of Stimulation

Five benefits have been observed in canines that were exposed to the Bio Sensor stimulation exercises. The benefits noted were:

1. Improved cardiovascular performance (heart rate)
2. Stronger heartbeats
3. Stronger adrenal glands
4. More tolerance to stress
5. Greater resistance to disease

In tests of learning, stimulated pups were found to be more active and were more exploratory than their non-stimulated littermates over which they were dominant in competitive situations. Secondary effects were also noted regarding test performance. In simple problem solving tests using detours in a maze, the non-stimulated pups became extremely aroused, whined a great deal, and made many errors. Their stimulated littermates were less disturbed or upset by test conditions and when comparisons were made, the stimulated littermates were more calm in the test area, made fewer errors and gave only an occasional distress when stressed.

At 3 to 4 weeks of age, a dish of water and a dish of gruel should be introduced to the pups. Feed a high quality dry puppy food, softened with warm milk or water to make a gruel. This can be fed in a low heavy dish four times daily. “Flying saucer” dishes, pie plates, or rabbit dishes work well for this. Gradually decrease the amount of time the pups spend with their mother at this point. This will make the transition from nursing to weaning smoother and will also lessen the puppies' demands on their mother. 

Beginning at 2 weeks of age, they should be dewormed with Pyrantel for the first time, puppies should be wormed every 2 weeks, starting at 2 weeks of age. 

By 5 to 6 weeks of age, they should be weaned and eating only puppy food. Make sure to offer fresh water after every feeding, place just enough water to cover the bottom of a bowl, until puppies get the hang of drinking water. Then larger amounts can be offered after every meal. Puppy water bottles can be added to the puppy pens to provide access to water all day without the fear of puppies playing in the water, spilling the water, or attempting to drown themselves in it.

From this point on, the pups will become more fun and a lot more work. It can become difficult to keep the pups confined and they can be messy and destructive. An exercise pen or playpen can be helpful.

The first 3 weeks with the puppies are relatively neat and clean. Mom will lick them frequently and ingest all of their urine and feces. However, upon starting on solid food, the mom will give up this quest and you will now have to deal with excrement. There are many ways to keep the pups clean. My favorite is to place a 2’’ deep plastic tray in the enclosure filled with pine shavings or shredded or pelleted newspaper. This, with some practice, will give the pups a place to eliminate thereby keeping their bedding clean.

In addition to providing bedding to allow for good footing, the shavings tray, and food and water dishes, the pups should have a bed to sleep in and acceptable chew toys. Stuffed Kongs and soft toys should be changed regularly to provide environmental variety and developmental stimulation.

By this time, they should have increased human social contact. At 8 weeks, your pups should be examined, vaccinated, checked for worms, and wormed. Boosters should be administered every 3 to 4 weeks until 16 weeks of age.

Eight to ten weeks is an ideal age socially to place pups in their new homes. Potential puppy buyers should be carefully screened to assure they are the right home for your pup. We recommend you sign a contract with puppy buyers. Each puppy must be examined and the appropriate Certificate of Veterinary Inspection will be completed by one of our doctors.